FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

    WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF TREES?
    WHAT ARE MY TREES WORTH?
    WHICH TREES SHOULD I SELECT?
    WHY SHOULD I BUY A HIGH QUALITY TREE?
    WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO PLANT A TREE?
    HOW DO I AVOID UTILITY CONFLICTS?
    WHY SHOULD I HIRE AN ARBORIST?
    WHAT ABOUT TREES AND TURF?
    WHAT ARE PROPER MULCHING TECHNIQUES?
    WHAT ARE PROPER PRUNING TECHNIQUES?
    WHAT ABOUT INSECTS AND DISEASE?
    HOW DO I AVOID CONSTRUCTION DAMAGE?
    DOES "TOPPING" HURT TREES?
    WHAT IS PHC?


    NEW TREE PLANTING

    Think of the tree you just purchased as a lifetime investment. How
    well your tree, and investment, grows depends on the type of tree
    and location you select for planting, the care you provide when the
    tree is planted, and follow-up care the tree receives after planting.
    Planting the Tree
    

    The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the dormant season - in
    the fall after leaf drop or early spring before budbreak. Weather conditions
    are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before spring
    rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth. However, trees properly
    cared for in the nursery or garden center, and given the appropriate care
    during transport to prevent damage, can be planted throughout the growing
    season. In tropical and subtropical climates where trees grow year round,
    any time is a good time to plant a tree, provided that sufficient water is
    available. In either situation, proper handling during planting is essential to
    ensure a healthy future for new trees and shrubs. Before you begin planting
    your tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities located prior to
    digging.
    If the tree you are planting is balled or bare root, it is important to
    understand that its root system has been reduced by 90 to 95 percent of its
    original size during transplanting. As a result of the trauma caused by the
    digging process, trees commonly exhibit what is known as transplant
    shock. Containerized trees may also experience transplant shock,
    particularly if they have circling roots that must be cut. Transplant shock is
    indicated by slow growth and reduced vigor following transplanting. Proper
    site preparation before and during planting coupled with good follow-up care
    reduces the amount of time the plant experiences transplant shock and
    allows the tree to quickly establish in its new location. Carefully follow nine
    simple steps, and you can significantly reduce the stress placed on the
    plant at the time of planting.
    1 Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide, as much as
    three times the diameter of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball. It
    is important to make the hole wide because the roots on the newly
    establishing tree must push through surrounding soil in order to establish.
    On most planting sites in new developments, the existing soils have been
    compacted and are unsuitable for healthy root growth. Breaking up the soil
    in a large area around the tree provides the newly emerging roots room to
    expand into loose soil to hasten establishment.
    2 Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the
    base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been
    planted. If the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may have to remove
    some soil from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine how
    deep the hole needs to be for proper planting.
    3 Remove tree container for containerized trees. Carefully cutting
    down the sides of the container may make this easier. Inspect the root ball
    for circling roots and cut or remove them. Expose the trunk flare, if
    necessary.
    4 Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing the tree in the
    hole, check to see that the hole has been dug to the proper depth—and no
    more. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the
    top 12 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have
    difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant the
    tree a little high, 2 to 3 inches above the base of the trunk flare, than to
    plant it at or below the original growing level. This planting level will allow for
    some settling. To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always
    lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk.

    5 Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have
    someone view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is
    straight. Once you begin backfilling, it is difficult to reposition the tree.
    6 Fill the hole gently but firmly. Fill the hole about one-third full and
    gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. Then, if the
    root ball is wrapped, cut and remove any fabric, plastic, string, and wire
    from around the trunk and root ball to facilitate growth (see diagram). Be
    careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the process.
    Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air
    pockets that may cause roots to dry out. To avoid this problem, add the
    soil a few inches at a time and settle with water. Continue this process
    until the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. It is not recommended
    to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.
    7 Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown and dug properly at
    the nursery, staking for support will not be necessary in most home
    landscape situations. Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly
    and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the
    time of planting. However, protective staking may be required on sites
    where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns.
    If staking is necessary for support, there are three methods to choose
    among: staking, guying, and ball stabilizing. One of the most common
    methods is staking. With this method, two stakes used in conjunction with
    a wide, flexible tie material on the lower half of the tree will hold the tree
    upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk. Remove support
    staking and ties after the first year of growth.

    8 Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch is simply organic matter applied to
    the area at the base of the tree. It acts as a blanket to hold moisture, it
    moderates soil temperature extremes, and it reduces competition from
    grass and weeds. Some good choices are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded
    bark, peat moss, or composted wood chips. A 2- to 4-inch layer is ideal.
    More than 4 inches may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels.
    When placing mulch, be sure that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered.
    Doing so may cause decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. A
    mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to
    avoid moist bark conditions and prevent decay.

    9 Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked;
    overwatering causes leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Water trees at least
    once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot weather. When
    the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue
    until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent
    watering.
    Other follow-up care may include minor pruning of branches damaged during
    the planting process. Prune sparingly immediately after planting and wait to
    begin necessary corrective pruning until after a full season of growth in the
    new location.

    After you’ve completed these nine simple steps, further routine care and
    favorable weather conditions will ensure that your new tree or shrub will
    grow and thrive. A valuable asset to any landscape, trees provide a long-
    lasting source of beauty and enjoyment for people of all ages. When
    questions arise about the care of your tree, be sure to consult our ISA
    Certified Arborists .
    The PHC Alternative
    Maintaining mature landscapes is a complicated undertaking. You may
    wish to consider our professional Plant Health Care (PHC) maintenance
    program, which we now offer to our customers. A PHC program is designed
    to maintain plant vigor and should initially include inspections to detect and
    treat any existing problems that could be damaging or fatal. Thereafter,
    regular inspections and preventive maintenance will ensure plant health and
    beauty.

   
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